Nandini Valsan is a writer and film maker who currently lives in Doha, Qatar. She is a travel enthusiast and an avid foodie; who believes every moment in life is a learning experience.
Malayali cuisine for the Nomadic Soul
I am a foodie. No doubt about it. I love that when we travel, our connect with the new culture is strengthened with the distinct flavours that are an integral part of the local cuisine. I love seeing how the same ingredient can be turned into completely different experiences on the taste palate, depending on where you are eating it. For instance, compare the spicy Kerala kootu curry with an all American pumpkin pie; both of which are essentially a blend of pumpkin and spices, but with such divergent and yet equally yummy outcomes.
A variety in cuisine is essential to my happiness. However, when seeking comfort food; my tummy is without a doubt, positively and proudly an absolute Malayali! If there is one thing that has always connected me to my Indian roots; it is the Malayali cuisine that has pervaded the stoves of every kitchen in every country that I have called home over the years. Isn’t that a dichotomy you ask. How can you say you love variety and then say your tummy is purely Malayali? Well it is true. Our cuisine really is a template of diversity!
For the narrow sliver of a state that Kerala is; maybe because of its unique socio-political history and geological differences; each region has its distinct flavours. While the typical feisty Kerala fish curry is commonly made with kodumpulli as a souring agent in Central and South Kerala, folks in the Malabar region who see the black blob floating in the fish curry for the first time, wonder at what it is. Even a biriyani takes on so many different forms within Kerala, with the Thalassery dum biriyani being the most famous and sought after. Yet, you also have a lighter version in the biriyani that has originated from Kochi; and the spicy, more reddish and fried version that has evolved from the Thiruvananthapuram side.
Central Kerala, or the erstwhile kingdom of Kochi, has such a rich history peppered with the different influences of the European colonizers, migrants from other parts of India, and of course its erstwhile vibrant Jewish population. The amalgamation of all these cultures in the food, have made it a unique culinary destination. Likewise, in the Travancore region, due to its proximity in geography and history to Tamil Nadu, you tend to find a crossover of traditions. For example, unlike in the Northern regions, here you will find the flaky boli, a chapatti with a delicious sweet stuffing, taking pride of place at the end of a sadya meal.
Personally, I always feel I hit the gastronomic jackpot! Most of the flavours that permeate my own food have been influenced by my mother’s Thalassery roots. She had the added advantage of bolstering her repertoire with recipes imbibed from my Irinjalakuda bred father’s purely vegetarian family’s traditions, making her an all rounder when it came to all things culinary!
Decades later, many of our friends from Cairo still remember her famous biriyani, coconut fish curry, and the many rounds of appams and stew that she has fed them. Despite the dearth of ingredients, she made do with local produce that she incorporated into traditional Malayali recipes, ensuring that we didn’t miss out on the wonderful culinary traditions we were born into. It really is no wonder that Kerala cuisine is my favourite in the world!